SEA OF CORTEZ LEG FIVE: Bahía de Los Angeles back to Santa Rosalía

SEA OF CORTEZ LEG FIVE: Bahía de Los Angeles back to Santa Rosalía

Bahía de Los Angeles

We spent a few days anchored behind the sandy spit off the B de LA village, got some laundry done, checked out the two tiendas and enjoyed Wi-Fi, numerous beers and a very nice evening meal at Guillermo’s.  The village is little more than one strip of (quite fancy) paved road, has no cellphone service, and Wi-Fi found in just a few places. 

The Bay is well known for being a home to whale sharks and we were treated to a ‘close encounter from the dinghy while returning from a walk on the sand spit.  Photos don’t do these lovely creatures justice, and to see one swimming towards you with its large mouth open, feeding on plankton, is quite the experience. 

We enjoyed the company of other boats coming and going at the village.  The UPS duties finally paid, we headed off for La Gringa, just a few miles north.

Bahía de Los Angeles to La Gringa

29’2.284N 113’32.719W

9/6/20206.3nm / 342.1 hrs

La Gringa is a long stony spit with wetland areas, and one of the attractions is the ‘river ride’ that takes you out of the wetland areas back to the bay after high tide (and repeat) … we missed this!  We enjoyed our few days in La Gringa however.  We took the opportunity to go for a sail on the junk rigged TAIKO with Martin and Renata, which was quite the experience, and we spent a nice evening with them both aboard Boundless.  With some northerly weather expected, it seemed as though most of the boats in the northern sea headed for La Gringa, and on one evening we counted 14 boats anchored.  A walk along the beach and up a small hill gave us a great view all round. 

San Souci arrived in La Gringa and enjoying a drink with Heather and Baron, we discussed taking advantage of the impending northerlies to get back to Santa Rosalía, us to collect our packages, and Baron to renew his visa. 

The whale sharks continued to visit in La Gringa, and one surprised us by passing right by our anchor rode as we were about to leave.

La Gringa to Punta Alacrán

28’53.937N 113’22.587W

9/9/202015.9nm / 344.3hrs

With the northerlies blowing 20 – 30 knots, we prepared to leave the anchorage, waiting a short while for TAIKO to row over (crazy!) to say goodbye and hand over a small memento Renata had made for us.  Sailing under jib alone, we had a very sporty sail south and past the ‘Los Gemelos’ islands, past the entrance into Don Juan, and around the point.  The sea state was certainly ‘confused’ and at one point we took a wave into the cockpit (a first for us on Boundless).  We anchored in blustery weather in Punta Alacrán, just off the luxury yurt wilderness camp that clearly had no guests staying at that time.  Sans Souci arrived shortly after us, and a radio discussion decided they would leave earlier than us and we would aim to catch them at some point during the day (San Souci is an Aries 32 – a pretty, but heavy displacement full keel double ender, built more for comfort than speed). 

Punta Alacrán to Punta (Playa) Teresa

28’25.194N 112’50.885W

9/10/2043.8nm / 348.4 hrs

We headed out from Alacrán in calm conditions, ran the watermaker while motoring and enjoyed a mega-pod of dolphins as the busily (no time for playing) headed north.  A couple of hours later the wind filled in nicely and it was time for the spinnaker, which we ran ‘wing on wing’ for a number of hours.  With Sans Souci in our sights, we could see they were wing on wing with their spinnaker, large genoa, and mainsail, and as we approached, Heather through up the sun umbrella (color coordinating with their spinnaker, of course) for that extra sail area.  As we passed we took the opportunity to take photos of the pretty boat, and happy San Souci crew. 

Anchoring at Playa Teresa proved challenging with a baffling three times dragging before we relocated to the north end of the beach (yes, as suggested in the cruising guide!) and finally set the anchor well. 

Julian had baked some bread and made a vegetarian chili while underway in the pleasant conditions and we put the dinghy in the water and rowed over (at a perfect sunset moment … quick row back to the boat to get the camera) to get Heather and Baron for supper on Boundless.   

Punta (Playa) Teresa to Santa Rosalía

27’20.256N 112’15.768W

9/11/2074.4nm / 353.5hrs

We got up just before dawn, and headed off anchor just as the sun was rising.  The wind soon filled in and the spinnaker was up again.  The conditions were excellent for a long time before the wind got too light that the dropped.  The trip dow to Santa Rosalia is a long day anyway, so we motored for a couple of hours until we hit the acceleration zone around the ‘Tres Virgenes’ when the spinnaker was up again and we were flying along. As the wind approached 20 knots it was clearly time to take the spinnaker down, we enjoyed the las hour or so just under main, playing scrabble (all these screens I have to pay attention to!) until we reached Santa Rosalía just after dark, and made our way into the breakwater to the calm of the marina to see it was almost full.  The group of Totem, Pulsar, Pablo were there as well as others, Kalemba, and Lison Life, that we had met in Puerto Escondido.

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