Isla Carmen Circumnavigation – Liz and Scott week

Isla Carmen Circumnavigation – Liz and Scott week

Having had no visitors to stay on the boat since the pandemic began last year, we were super excited to have guests arrange a visit. Liz and Colin were co-workers at ECM, and we all became friends while we were living in Fairfax, where Scott and Liz have a home.

This was also great timing for us. We had been in Puerto Escondido for a full month dealing with the broken foot, and now a week past surgery when Scott & Liz arrived, we were super ready to get away from the dock, albeit with restricted options for Julian (no swimming or walking allowed).


Puerto Escondido to Candeleros Chico (Bahía Mano de Díos)

DATE:25 July, 2021
DEPARTURE:Puerto Escondido
DESTINATIONCandeleros Chico
DESTINATION LAT/LONG:25°42.413N 111°12.945W
TRIP:11.9nm
ENGINE HOURS (at Destination)560.9hrs
GUESTS ON BOARD:Liz Campana & Scott Barrett

The forecast for the whole week was for fairly light southerly winds, and the first day out lived up to the forecast. We headed out of our temporary (post surgery) slip, and into glassy water with the intent of checking if there were boats in Candeleros Chico, and if so, carrying straight on to Monserat. We motored above and along the east side of Isla Danzante, one of the more jagged, rugged looking Islands in the ‘Sea’, and clearing the south end, we were delighted to get a look at a completely clear Candeleros Chico. Despite having to motor the whole way it was really good to be on the move again.

Once anchored, it was not long before the three that could get in the water, did. The water was completely clear, and they all enjoyed a long snorkel along both sides of the bay.


Candeleros Chico to Yellowstone Beach, Isla Monserat

DATE:26 July, 2021
DEPARTURE:Candeleros Chico
DESTINATIONYellowstone Beach
DESTINATION LAT/LONG:25°42.529N 111°2.749W
TRIP:11.7nm
ENGINE HOURS (at Destination)562.5hrs
GUESTS ON BOARD:Liz Campana & Scott Barrett

The following morning, there was a brief shore excursion in Candeleros Chico prior to raising the anchor and heading over to Yellowstone Beach. We had fishing lines out soon after setting out and very quickly pulled in a large fish, deeming it to be a skipjack, we threw it back. A check of the books confirmed the fish to have been a Black Skipjack (aka Mexican Tunny) which is reported to be ‘Good’ for eating. Given that, upon catching a second, even larger fish of the same type, we decided to keep it and cook it up, after a long marinade in lime, garlic and other tasty treats.

The entrance to Yellowstone Beach was surprisingly shallow , but the water was super clear and the beach very pretty. Scott tried the SUP and met the usual beginner challenges, which apparently escaped Liz when she got on, and proceeded to gracefully cruised around the bay, standing up and without falling once.

The evening meal was the skipjack, cooked on the barbecue, and the general consensus was not favorable (Yuk!) … we won’t be keeping any more.


Yellowstone Beach, Isla Monserat to Painted Cliffs, Isla Carmen (via Las Salinas)

DATE:27 July, 2021
DEPARTURE:Yellowstone Beach
DESTINATIONPainted Cliffs
DESTINATION LAT/LONG:25°51.346N 111°00.592W
TRIP:25nm
ENGINE HOURS (at Destination)567.25hrs
GUESTS ON BOARD:Liz Campana & Scott Barrett

We headed out of Yellowstone Beach following the same track we made coming in. On the way out we passed two pangas that had been in the bay all night fishing. We headed straight north to Las Salinas with the wind building and by the time we got anchored in Las Salinas there was quite the breeze. We anchored between the beach and the wreck buoy. The ‘three amigos’ headed off in the dinghy to snorkel over the wreck, a 120ft fishing vessel sunk in the 1980’s. The visibility wasn’t great, but was clear enough for them to get a good impression of the ship, and the variety of sea life now calling it home.

A quick quesadilla lunch and they were off again for the shore tour of Las Salinas … reportedly very HOT!

Las Salinas faces south and the anchorage was a bit choppy during the day, confirming our original plan of needing to move around to one of the more secure anchorages on the east side of Isla Carmen. The motor around the point is quite spectacular with dramatic landscape. We chose to continue to the second more protected anchorage, Painted Cliffs, and we set the anchor pretty much on the ‘Sean and Heather’ guidebook mark. Once secured, we notice a large rock to our west, just below the surface of the water. Colin dove on the anchor, and then reported that the rock close by was full of fish and a good snorkel spot, but with a highly active day, that was going to wait for the morning.


Painted Cliffs to Los Coronados (Via ‘V Cove’, El Refugio)

DATE:28 July, 2021
DEPARTURE:Painted Cliffs
DESTINATIONLos Coronados
DESTINATION LAT/LONG:26°6.314N 111°17.507W
TRIP:14.1nm
ENGINE HOURS (at Destination)571.6hrs
GUESTS ON BOARD:Liz Campana & Scott Barrett

Hoping to get into V Cove, but quite prepared to head straight to Coronados, we were excited to see that, other than a panga, the bay was empty, so were anchored in the center on a bow anchor alone. Once anchored the three of them were in the water straight away, and did a huge sweep of most of the Cove. There were a few bees while I was sitting waiting for the snorkelers to return but with four of us on board, the bees came with a vengeance.

Thinking that the bees were not going to leave anytime soon, we pulled up the anchor and left at full speed, leaving them behind. The good news was that the wind was up and we enjoyed a very pleasant sail over to Los Coronados. After the narrow entrance into Los Coronados we anchored off the west beach in what appeared to be a slightly weedy bottom.

We elected to stay for the next day in Los Coronados, and I took Scott and Liz for a quick tour of the three beaches, staying for a short while in the third north, smaller one, and enjoyed one foot in the water and the sand for a few minutes, the first time feeling sand and water in more than a month.

Scott & Liz took a dinghy trip to the shore, taking in the (hot) walk through the pathways, enjoying a snorkel and the beach.

On the second night in Los Coronados there was a lot of lightning in the east (behind the volcano), and at one point, just after going to bed, the wind picked up to 20 knots. a quick ‘all hands on deck’ to put away the last few unprepared items and we sat for a few minutes, as the wind subsided, but the light show continued. This, we believe, was our first proper ‘Chubasco’ since the lighting event leaving Santa Rosalía last year.


Los Coronados to Bahía Marquer (via Puerto Escondido)

DATE:30 July, 2021
DEPARTURE:Los Coronados
DESTINATIONBahía Marquer
DESTINATION LAT/LONG:25°91.984N 111°13.255W
TRIP:32.1 nm
ENGINE HOURS (at Destination)576.3 hrs
GUESTS ON BOARD:Liz Campana & Scott Barrett

With Liz and Scott booked for pre-flight Covid 19 tests at 3pm, we left Coronados to sail back to Puerto Escondido. With the wind against us and a slightly adverse current we enjoyed some extra tacking on our way down, motoring the last of the way, and getting them to the dock with ten minutes to spare.

As Scott and Liz waiting for their results, Colin dumped the garbage, got a few supplies from the store, and filled with water. Julian sat at the back of the watching Colin …. basically the theme for the entire week. Negative tests in hand we left Escondido as quickly as we had arrived, and after turning the point, raised the sails and had a quick (favorable current advantage) sail right into Marquer.


Bahía Marquer to Puerto Escondido

DATE:31 July, 2021
DEPARTURE:Bahía Marquer
DESTINATIONPuerto Escondido
DESTINATION LAT/LONG:25°49.424N 111°18.836W
TRIP:7.8 nm
ENGINE HOURS (at Destination)577.7 hrs
GUESTS ON BOARD:Liz Campana & Scott Barrett

A last snorkel for Scott accompanied by Liz on the SUP filled most of the morning, and we left Marquer in light wind, but prepared to sail the few miles back over to Escondido. The adverse current however had other plans and when it became clear that the 1.0 knot progress we were making was entirely to the side, the motor was reluctantly fired up.

Back in Escondido, we took a buoy off at the side of the mooring field, and went ashore for a last dinner with Liz and Scott in the restaurant.


It was a great break to have visitors on the boat, and we were super excited to share the week with Liz and Scott. It is always a total pleasure when guests on the boat really enjoy the sailing, and Scott and Liz clearly threw themselves into life on the hook, sailing the boat, and soaking in the beautiful world that sits below the water in the Sea of Cortez.

We had a really great time with our first guests in well over a year, and we are sure Liz and Scott with be back to spend more time with us as we move forward in our adventure.

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