We spent a almost a week in La Paz, doing a bit of provisioning, but also taking advantage of access to Sergio Galindo to have our stern anchor straightened after being bent in Chacala, and making a modification to the swim ladder he had made for us previously.
In addition, we decided, despite the inflated price, to go ahead and replace our anchor chain. On inspecting the chain in Puerto Vallarta with the intention of replacing one of the chain-connector links, we found the chain had FIVE of the connectors, and was basically a number of lengths of chain stitched together. Not good!
Marina CostaBaja to Bahía Falsa
|DATE:||8 June 2021|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||24°15.530N 110°18.966W|
|ENGINE HRS (at Destination):||535.02|
With Sergio coming to the dock to return the repaired anchor, and the modified swim ladder, we were ‘free to go’ and set out for the short motor up to Bahía Falsa. Juliet was pleased to see us as we were now both ready to move north again.
Bahía Falsa to Enseñada El Cardonal
|DATE:||9 June 2021|
|DESTINATION:||Enseñada El Cardonal|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||24°33.007N 110°23.146W|
|ENGINE HRS (at Destination):||537.29 hrs|
After a pleasant sail up to El Cardonal, taking the opportunity to get some video footage for Juliet’s YouTube channel, we anchored in the beautiful bay. After settling in, we took a dinghy ride out to the southern point of the entrance to El Cardonal, and did some snorkeling, after which, we took the dinghies to the beach in ‘El Cardoncito’, the small bay immediately south of El Cardonel. We had noticed this small bay before and thought it would be tight for one boat … it looks pretty confined on the chart, but a dinghy reconnoiter proved this bay to be definitely doable for a couple of boats, and is on the list for a later visit.
Enseñada El Cardonal to Isla San Francisco
|DATE:||10 June 2021|
|DEPARTURE:||Enseñada El Cardonal|
|DESTINATION:||Isla San Francisco|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||24°49.263N 110°34.25W|
|ENGINE HRS (at Destination):||541.02 hrs|
We had decided to try our our new fishing lures on the trip up to San Francisco, and caught two smaller bonitas in the first hour of the trip, throwing them back. And nothing more until …. a big yank and a jingle of the bell, on one of the handlines, and as we carefully pulled in the line, we saw a big dorado flip out the water a few times. Having lost a few dorado in the past, we resolved to be patient, and wait this one out. The recovery went as planned and after the fish was tired, we bought it alongside and Colin managed to gaff it. Success! This was a super big dorado, and it fed both Juliet and ourselves with plenty of meat for two nights (8 big servings).
Based on our previous experience here on the ‘Día de los Muertos’ weekend in November, we had debated whether it was a good idea to go to Isla San Francisco on a Thursday, just before the weekend, but went went anyway. The bay did indeed live up to our previous experience, with numerous large party boats and a constant drone of jet skis driving around the Bay.
It is a beautiful place with great snorkeling on both sides, as well as the opportunity for a hike, but it is a shame it is such a notorious destination for rowdy mega yacht charters.
We took a really pleasant hike up to the clifftop. It is really easy to get to and the views are much more rewarding than the effort to get there.
Isla San Francisco to San Evaristo
|DATE:||12 June 2021|
|DEPARTURE:||Isla San Francisco|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||24°54.548N 110°42.37W|
|ENGINE HRS (at Destination):||542.52 hrs|
Two nights in crazy Isla San Francisco was all we were cut out for, and we escaped to head the short distance over to San Evaristo. It was LeeAnne’s turn to catch a dorado, her first, and she was super excited to get it on board. After settling in, we went to shore to the tienda, and then tried snorkeling in the north bay of San Evaristo, which when we were here in the fall, had been spectacular. The visibility however, was not so great on this occasion and the swell was riding into this south facing bay, but we managed to see a nice variety of fish.
We took LeeAnne’s dorado over to Lupe’s bar in the evening, and had Fish tacos prepared by the kitchen, which were super-delicious. We were served by Lupe’s son Fernando, and we were interested to learn from him that they had not had one case of Covid in San Evaristo, and that despite the national school closures of more than a year, the local school had stayed open. San Evaristo implemented some fairly ardent restrictions around the village when Covid hit, with yatistas not being welcome for a short while and a blockade where the road enters the village, and it was good to hear the measures had paid off.
There was a boat in the prime spot for southerly conditions when we first arrived, but it moved out shortly after, but this left us with an anchor spot that was a a little more exposed to southerly swell than we would have liked, and given that, and great wind forecast for the following day, we stayed only one night in San Evaristo.
San Evaristo to Agua Verde
|DATE:||13 June 2021|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||25°30.940N 111°3.775W|
|ENGINE HRS (at Destination):||545.41 hrs|
With good wind, we raised the mainsail before weighing anchor and sailed out of San Evaristo. Immediately around the point, we set a course north and put up the spinnaker, running for a long time wing-on-wing up the San Jose Channel. Juliet left after us, but caught up under power, and set about putting up their spinnaker, which they had not used for a few years. We watched, knowing that it was likely twisted in the bag and sure enough it took some sorting, but eventually it was flying nicely.
We anchored in the southern part of Aqua Verde, and were immediately met by ‘Manuel’ in a kayak, looking to take any garbage we had (for a donation). We didn’t have garbage (and should not give it to him anyway) but we did give him some jeans and a hoodie. We chatted with Manuel briefly and learned that many of the goats which were such a part of Agua Verde and the source of milk for the local cheese, had died in the last few month. According to Manuel they had got sick, but a later discussion the following day at the restaurant on the beach later clarified that the recent drought had depleted the goat’s sources of food. Very sad!
Agua Verde to Caleta Mano de Díos (Candeleros Chico)
|DATE:||15 June 2021|
|DESTINATION:||Caleta Mano de Díos (Candeleros Chico)|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||25°42.401N 111°12.973W|
|ENGINE HRS (at Destination):||548.19 hrs|
With flat calm weather, a short trip, and the expectation of setting a stern anchor at the other end, we towed the dinghy, which is extremely rare for us. The wind did get up enough for a short sail, but we ended up motoring, listening to music, and enjoying the ride up to beautiful Candeleros Chico.
On finding the entrance, which is always a challenge when approaching from the south, we entered first, got ourselves set up on the west side of the small cove and set the stern anchor just off the rocks, in a similar location to a previous visit. Juliet then came in and I set their stern anchor, leaving both boats sitting pretty, tucked well into the cove. Just in time, too, because a large powerboat came in just after, although it stayed for just a few hours.
We spent two days here, swimming and spearfishing and I caught two smaller cabrilla the first day that LeeAnne prepared breadcrumbs and cooked in coconut oil. The second day yielded one slightly larger cabrilla which Colin and I enjoyed, prepared the same way.
Caleta Mano de Díos (Candeleros Chico) to Candeleros (Enseñada Blanca)
|DATE:||12 June 2021|
|DEPARTURE:||Caleta Mano de Díos (Candeleros Chico)|
|DESTINATION:||Candeleros (Enseñada Blanca)|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||25°43.464N 111°14.514W|
Our third night in Candeleros Chico, the east wind was slightly stronger than on the previous nights, and was hitting us beam on, creating a challenge for the stern anchor arrangement. By 10pm we were confident the stern anchor was dragging, but, with the opportunity afforded by a brief shift back to the south, we lowered the dinghy and reset the rear anchor.
Just a half hour later it was clear it was dragging again and we were gradually moving side on the the beach. Time to get out of there! We started shortening the scope on the bow, with a view to leaving, and when we suspected we were also dragging on the bow anchor, we ditched the stern anchor, with its retrieval/marker buoy attached, and slipped out of Candeleros Chico in the dark. A somewhat harrowing experience!
We motored around to Candeleros (Enseñada Blanca), navigating the pass using the recommended waypoints, and anchored in 30′ in a huge part of the open Bay. CAVU were anchored there and it was good to see them on AIS. The following morning, with Juliet retrieving our stern anchor and heading over to Candeleros, we took the opportunity to catch up with Marla and Dave (and Gomez) from CAVU, who we had seen alot of last year while travelling, but never sat on a boat with. It was a good feeling to chat with them, and share a beer together sitting in our cockpit, a stark change from the experience of the previous year.
That evening, we went with Charlie and LeeAnne to the resort for supper and had the usual good food and pleasant time. However, on getting back in the boat after dinner, I stepped awkwardly into the cockpit and rolled over on my foot. Although I suspected it was more than a usual sprain, it was to be a few days until it was confirmed that I had indeed broken a bone in my foot.
Candeleros (Enseñada Blanca) to Puerto Escondido
|DATE:||19 June 2021|
|DEPARTURE:||Candeleros (Enseñada Blanca)|
|DESTINATION LAT/LONG:||25°49.334N 111°18.731W|
|ENGINE HRS (at Destination):||551.46 hrs|
We sailed under jib alone for most of the way up to Escondido, which felt quite a familiar place. Got ourselves settled on a mooring, and went for the famous Pizza at the restaurant.
WHILE IN PUERTO ESCONDIDO
We intended to make Puerto Escondido a base for much of the summer, and given the foot situation, it turned out it was a good place to be for a while, while we accessed the hospital, and the easy life that the location offers.
THE FOOT: The Wednesday after arriving, with no improvement to the foot, and having rented a car for us and Juliet to go to Loreto, we stopped by the hospital. A very short visit, 600 pesos and a diagnosis by the radiography tech and a security guard, and I was on my way with a photo of an x-ray on my phone.
The result … A big boot … not the best for dinghy boardings or moving around the boat, but better than a cast.
TROPICAL STORM ENRIQUE: We got the (very) tail end of tropical storm Enrique while in Puerto Escondido. It did mean a lot of boats arrived in the mooring field ahead of the ‘event’, but it turned out to give us little more than two decent rain showers. Just enough for Colin to get out on deck with the brush and clean away a few weeks grime.
SEWING PROJECTS: We took the opportunity being stuck in Escondido to do a couple of sewing projects. We adjusted the shade screens around the cockpit for a better fit, made some shade covers for the two large hatches and also shade covers for the large salon windows.